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You
rely on many appliances and systems in your home for your health,
comfort and security. Most depend completely on utility-supplied electricity.
It makes sense to have a backup system that will keep your family
comfortable and your home safe in a power failure.
These Top Ten Tips are a brief guide to backup systems. Six basic
types of backup systems are described in Table 1.
1.
Plan
Careful
preparation is essential to select, buy and install a backup system.
Don't leave it to the last minute - you and your family have to learn
how to use the system. And during a power failure, you may not be
able to find suitable, reasonably priced equipment, or have it installed
properly. Keep the system simple so you and your family can operate
and maintain it. Your emergency system must work reliably when needed.
In
most of Canada, the main purpose of a backup system is to keep the
house warm (and sometimes to keep the basement dry). You have to be
able to keep heat in, prevent unnecessary air infiltration, and prevent
pipes from freezing. The starting point is proper insulation and air
sealing, before you consider your backup power needs. To obtain information
on energy efficiency contact: Energy Publications Office of Energy
Efficiency c/o Canada Communication Group Ottawa ON K1A 0S9
3. Change to Efficient Appliances
Your backup system will do the most good if it is powering efficient
appliances. Use an electrician's ammeter to find out how much power
each appliance uses - its current draw in amps. The energy requirements
of some appliances will surprise you. Replace the inefficient appliances
with efficient appliances. Change to energy-efficient light bulbs
like compact fluorescents. When buying new equipment, get the most
efficient possible - for example, an energy-efficient refrigerator
or a lower-volume, smaller horsepower well pump or sump pump. Make
sure your furnace fan motor is the most efficient available. When
you use a backup system you must manage your electrical load. You
will have to operate even your most efficient appliances as little
as possible so that you have essential power as long as possible.
4. If Your House Is All-Electric
Don't use a backup generator to heat your house if it is all-electric,
or to power resistance heaters, such as baseboards and fan heaters
(a very poor choice - only 20 per cent efficiency). Install a wood,
oil, natural gas, or propane stove that uses a chimney. Or install
a pellet, oil, natural gas or propane stove that vents through the
wall. Fan-assisted air circulation makes auxiliary heating devices
more effective. You may need backup power for a fan, stove motors
and pumps. You must install a hearth and chimney for a wood stove,
and have a supply of dry wood. You will need backup power for a pellet
stove - but a pellet stove uses a less-costly through-the-wall chimney.
Propane, natural gas heaters and oil heaters use through-the-wall
chimneys, and need a reliable fuel source. Check delivery with your
local fuel supplier Some oil-fired furnaces and space heaters can
provide both hot water and space heat. Some of these appliances are
suitable for cooking and keeping food warm. Most fireplaces are not
very effective. They may heat you and one room. But they suck air
from other rooms and actually cool the rest of the house. Many fireplaces
are not built for continuous use, or are in poor condition, and can
be a real fire hazard.
5. Decide What Needs Power
Your backup must provide power for the circuits you depend on for
comfort, safety and security. Decide what you must keep running in
the event of a power outage. You may find you don't need an elaborate
backup. If you only need your sump pump, a small gasoline-powered
pump could be simpler and cheaper than a full backup system. Critical
loads are the essential loads. They might include lights, refrigerator-freezer,
microwave, sump pump, furnace, well pump, garage door opener, and
the home office. Your backup power system's capacity is the maximum
power draw (in kilowatts) of all the fixtures and appliances that
have to be served at one time, including higher startup loads. Remember:
ventilation and fresh air supply can also be important loads.
To determine the size of your backup power system:
-
Identify
the critical loads that you really need, and check whether they
can be safely served by alternatives that don't require electricity.
For example, a properly vented stove fuelled by wood, oil, or gas
could substitute for your furnace.
-
Total
the wattage of the lights and appliances on the circuits you'd like
to power
-
Check
the labels or owner's manuals for each appliance's rating
-
Add
about 25 per cent as a reserve for the startup power needed for most
electrical devices. This may not be enough for some furnaces and well
pumps. Motor startups can draw as much as three to five times more
power, especially from cold - making a 2,500- watt generator borderline
for starting an 800 watt furnace motor (ask about "slow start" motor
] options that draw less startup current.) The total will probably
be between 1,500 and 5,000 watts. However a basic system for efficient
lights and a radio will require much less, say 100-300 watts.
6.
Choose a Backup System
Some of the systems
(see Backup Power Systems table) include battery storage and a battery
charger and an inverter. The inverter converts 12 volt DC battery
power to standard 110 or 220 volt AC power. These systems can also
recharge the batteries using solar panels, a generator and your vehicle,
or your vehicle alone (but remember that unless you have an RV your
car battery is not a deep cycle type and should not be allowed to
go flat). The more expensive systems can power an entire, energy-efficient
house
7.
Hire an Electrician
An electrician
or electrical-contractor should install and prepare your backup
system to make sure it is safe for your family and your home. You
will need a manual transfer switch to send electricity from either
the municipal power supply or your backup to the vital circuits. The
switches cost from $100 to $230. Some residential uninterruptible
power systems are pre-assembled on wall mounting boards, with all
the necessary safety disconnects and code- approved wiring already
done. More sophisticated inverter power panels that automatically
flip the transfer switch and start the backup can cost $3,000 just
for the panel with the breakers and an inverter. It is a good idea
for an electrician to check wiring and grounding, and determine if
you need spike protection. In rural areas, voltage fluctuations and
even over-voltages that can damage sensitive equipment are not uncommon.
Never connect a backup power system without a transfer switch that
disconnects your home from the municipal power supply. This is to
protect electric utility crews working on your lines.
8.
Don't Use Unvented Appliances Indoors
Don't use unvented
combustion appliances, such as barbecues, cook stoves, fondues, propane
or kerosene heaters and lamps inside your house. They burn up available
oxygen. They produce CO2 (carbon dioxide) and other combustion gases
and fumes. Some produce huge quantities of colourless, odourless and
deadly carbon monoxide. Sterno cookers, fondues, and charcoal-burning
devices are especially dangerous. Never use them indoors. Room ventilation
won't get rid of fumes from unvented appliances. Never use them inside
your house. Use portable propane or naphtha cookstoves, heaters and
lamps outside only. There is a very real risk of fire, explosion,
asphyxiation or poisoning from fumes.
9.
Install Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms
Install battery-powered
smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms. They are inexpensive and
reliable and they can save your life. Do you have spare batteries?
10.
Test Your System Regularly
Regularly test
your backup system to make sure it can start your critical loads and
keep them running. Remember to disconnect your main breaker before
starting your backup system, or you can use an auxiliary circuit panel.
Auxiliary panels for backup power prevent electrical utility field
crews from being electrocuted by your home power systems. They should
be activated by a transfer switch and wired by an electrician. Note
that modern inverters can make it possible to use variable speed DC
generators which charge batteries directly and use half as much fuel
as a constant-speed AC generator. They can produce very high quality
AC power, which is crucial for sensitive electronic controls, provided
that the inverter is manufactured by an established company and produces
sine wave or modified sine wave outputs. To protect sensitive equipment,
such as computers, from power surges generator owners should run these
loads with a pure sine wave inverter instead of directly through the
generator. If you are counting on your generator or inverter to power
critical house systems during a power failure, test beforehand to
make sure that the quantity and quality of power produced will handle
the appliances you need to run.
Table 1 - Backup
Power Systems
|
Type
Of System
|
What
It Runs
|
Examples
Of Costs
|
Buying
Tips
|
| 1. Battery
Backup with inverter/charger for short blackouts of 12-48 hours
$2350 example |
Essential
AC loads only. Furnace, sump. pump, well pump, fridge plus efficient
lights, small DC appliances |
Battery bank
$725 (16 KWhr) Inverter/charger $1,400 (1100 Watt) Transfer Switch
$225 (50 Amp 240 Volt) |
Choose deep
cycle batteries, best connected in series, not parallel. Choose
a modern inverter/charger of suitable quality and surge capacity
|
| 2. Car, R.V.
or Truck as backup generator plus DC/AC inverter (must be grounded)
$110-5,500 |
Essential
AC loads only. Furnace, sump. pump, well pump, fridge plus efficient
lights, even a microwave |
300 Watt
inverter $110, engine can be OFF. 1000 Watt inverter $550, engine
must be ON. (limited by rating of vehicle components, important
not to let car battery run flat) 5000 Watt truck power system
$5,500 |
|
| 3. Single
PV panel and battery system. Normally DC only, could add small
inverter for AC $885 example |
Power for
weekend cabin. Efficient lights, small DC appliances, radio/TV,
CD player, cellphone, small pumps/fans, car vacuum, tools. |
Solar power
kit $650 (45 Watt) battery $125 (220 Amp hour) Inverter $110 (300
Watt) Excludes cost of DC appliances. |
Small marine
volt water pumps for bilges might be suitable for sumps. |
| 4. Twin PV
panel and battery system with inverter/charger to convert DC to
AC $3,780 example |
Power for
weekend cabin similar to 3. above plus some larger AC appliances
like microwave and vacuum water pumps |
Solar power
kit $2,400 (150 Watt) Battery Bank $580 (700 Amp hr) Inverter
$800 (1750 Watt) Installation costs Not Included. |
Sources include
solar energy and equipment suppliers |
| 5. Portable
generator must be grounded and should be connect via auxiliary
breaker panel $660-2,500 |
Preferably
essential AC loads only. Furnace, sump. pump, well pump, fridge
plus efficient lights and some appliances. |
500 Watt
AC generator $660 3000 Watt DC generator $2,200 (including AC
inverter) 5000 Watt AC generator $2,500 |
|
| 6. Fixed
generator, gasoline, diesel, propane. Must be installed by licensed
electrician $3,925 example |
Preferably
essential AC loads only. Furnace, sump. pump, well pump, fridge
plus efficient lights and some appliances. |
6500 Watt
AC generator $3,700 2 cylinder liquid cooled, less noise Transfer
switch $225 (50 Amp 240 volt) Installation costs Not Included. |
To reduce
generator running costs consider adding a battery bank with an
inverter/charger See system 1 |
Table 2 - Generator
Maintenance Tips (typical 5,000 watt gasoline engine)
These instructions
are for maintenance of a modern 3,000 to 5,000 watt, air-cooled, gasoline
engine generator for residential service. Most points, however, apply
to all generators.
Remember: gasoline
and diesel fuels require special care for proper and safe storage
so they don't become unusable because gums and gels form or they are
contaminated by water and dirt. Special additives can prevent these
problems.
Warnings and
Cautions
Is your generator
wiring safely insulated AND properly grounded?
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